Nonnas Review: A Charming, Though Predictable Feel-Good Restaurant-Themed Dramedy

Good food takes time, and I wish I could say the same for Nonnas. Not that it’s bad, but still decent enough for a straight-to-streaming, feel-good dramedy. It’s just that Stephen Chbosky, the director behind The Perks of Being a Wallflower and Wonder, who’s calling the shots, I was expecting something better from him.

Inspired by Jody Scaravella’s real-life Italian restaurant, Enoteca Maria specialises in grandma-style homemade Italian cooking. And yes, the chefs behind all the dishes are prepared and cooked by the titular nonnas, which means “Italian grandmothers”. Following the death of Joe’s (Vince Vaughn) beloved nonna (Karen Giordano) and mother (Kate Eastman), his life is nothing more than a hollow shell of his former self. His late mother left him a decent sum of life insurance money, where his best friend Bruno (Joe Manganiello) and wife Stella (Drea de Matteo) suggest he should do something useful.

But rather than taking up a new hobby or settling the debt as suggested by Bruno and Stella, Joe does something big and risky: buys a restaurant in Staten Island and converts it into an Italian eatery. Not just any eatery led by trained chefs, but actual nonnas to do all the cooking in the kitchen. Bruno feels sceptical about Joe’s idea and even worries about his lack of experience managing a restaurant.

However, Joe insists this is the one he wants to do, and is confident enough that everything will be fine. He already has the place and all he needs now is to recruit the nonnas, beginning with his mother’s best friend, Roberta (Lorraine Bracco). And thanks to a Craigslist ad, he manages to find two more, including Antonella (Brenda Vaccaro) and former nun Teresa (Talia Shire). Finally, he convinces his mother’s hairdresser and owner of a salon, Gia (Susan Sarandon), to help make desserts in his restaurant.

Joe’s goal is for customers not only to enjoy hearty homemade Italian dishes but also to experience a family-like dining atmosphere. He also reunites with his high school sweetheart, Olivia (Linda Cardellini), whom he used to bring to a prom. She’s a widow who is now practising law and is very close to her neighbour Antonella.

Chbosky opts for a been-there, done-that route in handling Liz Maccie’s unabashedly maudlin screenplay. It’s all strictly by the formula and surface level without delving deep into the storytelling. Think of it as an Italian comfort food, something as familiar as spaghetti Bolognese.

The story is as predictable as it goes from start to end. We see that things don’t run as smoothly as Joe expected, with Roberta and Antonella often bickering over their regional ways of Italian cooking. Not to mention obligatory setbacks like Joe facing slow days with no customers coming to his restaurant, other than relying on friends and family.

Then, there’s the romantic subplot about Joe still having feelings for Olivia, and it’s not rocket science to see where this is going. As formulaic as it may seem, the movie remains reasonably watchable, thanks largely to the above-average cast. Vince Vaughn is wonderfully earnest as Joe, while Linda Cardellini is thankfully given a substantial role and not relegated to a token female interest.

The nonnas played by screen veterans, including Lorraine Bracco, Brenda Vaccaro, Talia Shire and Susan Sarandon, steal most of the shows here, and it’s nice seeing them together. Of course, it would be a bonus point if Chbosky invests more time in developing each of their character arcs.

The movie equally benefits from Florian Ballhaus’ pleasant cinematography that captures Staten Island’s idyllic charm and its tight-knit community. I also enjoy how the food is lovingly shot, no matter whether it’s the ingredients being meticulously prepped or the alluring sight of the boiling fresh tomato sauce.

Nonnas is currently streaming on Netflix.